Wonderful Luxury Jewelries
This 1930s Cartier London tiara went up for auction yesterday. Aquamarine and diamond mounted on platinum was one of Jacques Cartier’s favourite gemstone combinations: he felt it created a look that was fresh and elegant and suited everyone from royalty to trendsetters. Clients agreed: the coronation of George VI in 1937 saw a flurry of orders for aquamarine jewels, while a couple of years earlier the bold interior designer Elsie de Wolfe famously dyed her hair blue to match her new Cartier #aquamarinetiara (aged 70 at the time, she’d just been voted Best Dressed Woman in the World). But Cartier didn’t just pick #aquamarine for its looks: as a semi-precious gemstone, it had the crucial benefit of being more affordable than precious gemstones (helpful during the Depression years) and more available in a range of geometric cuts. For the #jewelrydesigners, this variety of shapes was a gift: it gave them the chance to experiment with bold new styles and to come up with an almost architectural look in accordance with the #artdecofashion of the time.
Perhaps no wonder then that this #cartiertiara easily exceeded its €34k-70k estimate at the @dorotheum #jewelryauction in Vienna yesterday. With a flurry of bidding activity in the room, online and on the phone, it soared to €300,000 almost immediately. From then onwards it slowed down as the rising increments of 10k were reduced to increments of 5k and then only 3k with a couple of bidders dueling it out on the telephone. It finally looked like it had been sold at €468k, when a bid of €475k won the day and the hammer came down at €583k including commission.
Oh and for those interested in learning more about how #CartierLondon survived, and even prospered, during the #1930s Depression, check out my latest interview with @juncker.capucine (link in bio).. lots of gorgeous jewellery images there too.. #diadem #artdecojewelry #tiarathursday